Is A White Exterior House Hard To Keep Clean

Post by **mouses** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 10:41 am

So it's time to accept my firm repainted. I am thinking white. Volition I be distressing, does it look awful quickly due to showing dirt, etc.? Thanks.

Post by **dbr** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 11:04 am

mouses wrote:And then it's fourth dimension to accept my house repainted. I am thinking white. Will I be lamentable, does it look awful chop-chop due to showing clay, etc.? Thanks.

There is probably an optimum colour that shows dirt and aging the least. I doubt pure white is the best. Annotation that nighttime colors fade or otherwise show dirt likewise. White is less prone to visible fading or chalking and most likely yellowing is a minor business organisation. Grayness is an obvious but uninspiring choice. White is archetype and elegant, depending on the architecture. Too paint can exist washed from fourth dimension to time.

Why not take a walk around your neighborhood and see what houses expect the best.

Not directly related, merely the best color option I ever made in a car was a bronze-brown that seemed to match developing rust perfectly.

Post past **Brewman** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 12:06 pm

by dbr -Not directly related, only the best color choice I always made in a car was a bronze-brown that seemed to match developing rust perfectly.

+1 I demand to keep this in mind for my next car!

Post by **Sheepdog** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 12:21 pm

Quality exterior white latex paints contain chalking white titanium oxide pigments which keeps the paint "white" as they weather. (Tinting whites do not contain chalking pigments.)
Sheepdog
Retired pigment manufacturer

p.south. Personally, I dear white houses, especially 2 story ones. In that location is a 2 story white painted house a few doors down, painted at least 15 years ago which is cute today. It has been painted only twice over the last thirty years or more..

Mail service by **mouses** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 12:33 pm

Thank you.

No homeowners' clan, thank Goodness, or one-half of the community would be in jail.

Walking around to see other houses is a good idea. Just a side note, iii houses in a row upwardly the street were repainted to grayness. It looks like some tract of houses up in that location now. Not exactly lovely, either.

Mail service by **mouses** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 12:38 pm

adamthesmythe wrote:I would not even pigment the TRIM white. Too banal.

What kind of house? Where? What colors are neighboring houses painted? Why did you cull white?

The house is not interesting looking (sorry, Mom.) My belatedly Mom designed it and then information technology has extra bedrooms upstairs for kids and grandkids visiting. It is an odd box arrangement. Neighboring houses are tan and yellow.

I was going to paint information technology somewhat darker than the biscuit information technology is now (the trim is yellowish.) But then I saw a picture of a not bad white house. Besides, I thought when information technology snows it volition be a overnice color for that - winter scene, etc.

Mail by **dbr** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 12:48 pm

I wonder if you could photograph the house and then alter the color in some photoshop program to contemplate the effect. Information technology might be an architecturally awkward house would come off all-time in all white.

I as well still think all while is an elegant colour compared to the whole run of grays, browns, beige, etc., especially if white is not common in the area.

Post by **Toons** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 12:55 pm

Beige

Thu Jun 23, 2016 one:07 pm

The right color depends to a certain extent on the style of the house. Knowing the traditional colors for your fashion of house is a good place to start. Nosotros were told not to employ white because it makes all the architectural detail disappear.

The last time we painted, the painter told us to get some pocket-sized cans of the colors we were considering (both trunk and trim), paint swatches on the walls that were about 3-4' past i-2', and look at them in different kinds of light over several days. We did that with several different color combinations. It was interesting. Colors that looked nifty on our neighbour's house looked terrible on ours, and the colors we ended upwards with were something we would never have chosen from those little fries in the shop. Our trim is kind of a moisture cement color that looks awful in the tin, just amazing on the house.

Post past **oldcomputerguy** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 1:12 pm

mouses wrote:So it's fourth dimension to have my house repainted. I am thinking white. Will I be sorry, does it look awful speedily due to showing dirt, etc.? Cheers.

We had ours painted a couple of years ago, didn't select pure white only an off-white (closer to eggshell) with night greenish trim. I take not noticed a large dirty build-upwards since and so. One advantage of white versus a darker color is that it will be a bit cooler in summertime.

Post by **quantAndHold** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 ane:22 pm

mouses wrote:This is the flick that started me thinking about white. Actually it is probably cream.

This is really a proficient example of white making architectural details disappear. The foam colored walls await crawly, simply the window trim is only...gone..

Post by **TMCD75** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 one:36 pm

White is a safe option AND extremely popular trim color choice on both, interior and exterior projects. The wonderful aspect of white trim is that it matches every color nether the sun. It doesn't show dirt either, smart choice on many ways.

What you'll demand to do is complement the white trim and the body color with a nice accent color for your front door and shutters. So you're looking at three colors total to set it off correctly. Use a satin stop on the body/overhangs and possibly gloss on the shutters/forepart door.

Dorman Painting - 18 years experience

Post past **TonyDAntonio** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 1:59 pm

My sister paints everything white. We tried to talk her out of it when we redid her kitchen. She picked a beige...it looked awful. She went back to white. Inside and out. It doesn't look bad. My wife and I walk effectually San Francisco and run across many, many multi-million dollar houses with tons of architectural details and white doesn't look bad. If you similar white go with white. I will add it is easy to pick a colour yous like and take information technology await horrible because it is just a shade or two off. White seems to exist easier to non mess upwards.

Post past **invst65** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 2:06 pm

My business firm is pure white and I intend to proceed it that style. I was once told by a realtor that white makes a house look bigger and I recall he is right. There is a house identical to mine on the next cake and it is painted brown. Information technology looks a lot smaller.

Equally far as showing clay, I take pressure watched in one case in 10 years and it looks merely fine.

Post by **Miriam2** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 3:16 pm

Sheepdog wrote:Quality outside white latex paints contain chalking white titanium oxide pigments which keeps the pigment "white" as they weather. (Tinting whites do not contain chalking pigments.)
Sheepdog
Retired paint manufacturer

Sheepdog - do you mean that white exterior latex paint is different than taking the same paint and tinting information technology with a color? Is that why the colors fade? Would the cream paint on the house in the above movie fade? Does it affair if one is painting a plaster/stucco house every bit opposed to the paneling that is on that house?

Mail service past **Rodc** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 3:31 pm

I take a rather nondescript business firm. Nothing incorrect with information technology, simply nothing cool about it either, especially the exterior of the building. It is white.

No one e'er drove by and said, hey that is a dainty looking house! But then no one always drove past and said, wow, what were they thinking!

Thankfully nosotros have some very nice gardens.

I think some color and nice white trim would perchance await better, though if one greats creative with colors the risk goes upward that you lot will do more than harm than adept! (like with investments the risk goes upwards expected or hoped for return).

Mail past **GoldenFinch** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 3:50 pm

I like the cream color in the picture you posted. That really is not white. I do recollect information technology is a adept pick. Try not to over recollect pigment color likewise much equally information technology tin lead to a less happy consequence (at to the lowest degree in my experience).

Post by **Sheepdog** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 3:l pm

Miriam2 wrote:

Sheepdog wrote:Quality exterior white latex paints contain chalking white titanium dioxide pigments which keeps the paint "white" equally they weather. (Tinting whites do not contain chalking pigments.)
Sheepdog
Retired paint manufacturer

Sheepdog - practice you mean that white exterior latex paint is unlike than taking the same pigment and tinting it with a color? Is that why the colors fade? Would the cream paint on the house in the above picture fade? Does it matter if one is painting a plaster firm equally opposed to that paneling that is on that firm?

Miriam,
A "white" outside latex paint is not usually formulated to be tinted other than adding a small corporeality of blackness or blue. To the human eye a truthful white looks slightly yellowish, merely if a touch of black or blueish is added it looks whiter. Have you always heard of calculation bluing to white apparel wash? That's why.
Fading can be for several reasons. A paint'southward pigment content, specially a darker shade, may not be light fast. If a retailer tints a "white" erroneously, the chalking will crusade fading.

Would foam paint on that house fade?

It should non be noticeable if it does, although if yous would try to touch it up 5 years subsequently originally painting information technology, it may not match. A darker color might fade for some of the reasons I wrote.

Does it matter if one is painting a plaster house equally opposed to that paneling that is on that house?

Those surfaces have different porosity, just if both are properly primed they should look the aforementioned, although surface caused shadows could make them look slightly different.

Important extra annotation...e'er prime new paint jobs on the original surface with the best primer you can buy to brand the paint concluding many years longer without pealing. The first coat is e'er the nearly important.
And, there is practiced paint and there is very bad paint. Don't purchase paint on the cheap. The price of a paint chore is mostly labor and so buy the best.

Thu Jun 23, 2016 iv:34 pm

Brewman wrote:

by dbr -Not directly related, but the all-time colour choice I ever fabricated in a automobile was a bronze-brown that seemed to friction match developing rust perfectly.

+1 I demand to keep this in mind for my next car!

Owned a lite tan SUV with white spoke wheels. Information technology's trunk color was a perfect match to clay. The just way you could tell it was dirty was when the wheels matched the torso color.

Maybe the perfect vehicle colour would be "rusty dirt".

I believe a white firm, on a manicured light-green lawn, looks "stately".

Thu Jun 23, 2016 iv:41 pm

Only repainted my house calorie-free beige with nighttime shutters and it looks great. I love colors, white seems a picayune bones to me.

Post by **Mingus** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 five:05 pm

mouses wrote:This is the flick that started me thinking about white. Actually it is probably cream.

I like that color in the picture show. I approximate it's what would be chosen a 'vintage white' or 'antiquarian white'. Not quite beige, but safe and not tedious.

Post by **Miriam2** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 5:43 pm

Sheepdog! Thank y'all for sharing your painting expertise! Very helpful.

Sheepdog wrote:And, there is expert paint and in that location is very bad paint. Don't purchase paint on the cheap. The price of a paint job is generally labor then buy the best.

How do nosotros - the mutual person - know which paint is good and which is bad? It all looks the aforementioned in the can. Is the price an authentic clue?

Which brands are the good paint brands and which are the stay-abroad paint brands? Benjamin Moore, Pittsburgh, Sherwin Williams, Behr . . .

I'm not sure whether painters volition level with us. The last fourth dimension I painted the exterior of my house, the painter said Sherwin Williams was the best, go and look and pick my color and he would option upward the paint. I went to the Sherwin Williams store and found a line of painters buying their pigment. Everybody knew everybody and I had the feeling the store gave a nice discount to the painters, which is ok, but information technology might mean my painter wanted me to select Sherwin Williams brand so he could proceeds their disbelieve, non because information technology was the best brand for me.

Post by **jharkin** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 vii:28 pm

Miriam2 wrote:

Sheepdog wrote:Quality outside white latex paints contain chalking white titanium oxide pigments which keeps the pigment "white" as they weather. (Tinting whites do not contain chalking pigments.)
Sheepdog
Retired paint manufacturer

Sheepdog - do you mean that white exterior latex pigment is different than taking the same pigment and tinting information technology with a color? Is that why the colors fade? Would the cream pigment on the house in the above picture fade? Does it matter if ane is painting a plaster/stucco firm as opposed to the paneling that is on that house?

That'southward an interesting comment, I've never heard of modern latex paints chalking heavily. Chalking was the common failure manner of traditional oil based pb paint of the 18th and early 19th century - those paints used white lead (lead carbonate) as the base pigment and boiled linseed oil as the binder, they would fail by chalking where the blanket would slowly plough powdery over time. However this was a sloooow process and those old white paints could last fifty years or more rather than the pitifully short lifetimes of modern paint.

https://books.google.com/books?id=ETdBA ... ng&f=false

Modernistic paints either use an acrylic resin ('latex' or waterborne paint) or an alkyd ( a constructed oil replacing linseed in oil paints) and use titanium white (titanium dioxide) in place of white lead. They are far safer environmentally but more than often fail by chipping or peeling rather than chalking.

As far as tinting goes, my only experience is with BenMoore, they will employ unlike bases to tint based on the colour desired, light colors volition utilise white base, and then there is 'medium base' and 'deep base of operations' for darker shades. They all seem to have the same titanium dioxide base paint, just in different proportions.

As far as keeping white clean.. it should non exist a problem. If you have a lot of shade or mostly northern exposure yous can do a house wash every few years to take off the mildew. My local hardware store carries a product by Jomax that works well, you lot mix it with bleach and h2o in a garden sprayer, spray on then hose off after 15 minutes and the paint looks similar new.

As far as color choice.. it depends on the manner and your taste. I don't particularly like white merely many people love it and it is appropriate for certain periods. All the same note that it was Not the universal color of old houses... I wrote up a chip on color trends in another thread...

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=193398 ( 11th post nearly one/iii downwardly page)

Mail by **Rodc** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 vii:46 pm

those paints used white pb equally the base paint and boiled linseed oil as the binder

While various lead compounds have color and as such do double duty equally pigments, my understanding the principal reason they are used is to speed the oxidation of the linseed oil (reason information technology is boiled besides rather than raw) so that oil based pigment dries in a reasonable amount of time. Of course newer formulations use other drying agents.

Mail past **Mingus** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 10:21 pm

Rodc wrote:

those paints used white lead as the base pigment and boiled linseed oil every bit the binder

While various lead compounds accept colour and as such do double duty as pigments, my understanding the main reason they are used is to speed the oxidation of the linseed oil (reason it is boiled as well rather than raw) and then that oil based paint dries in a reasonable amount of time. Of course newer formulations use other drying agents.

Lead served a few purposes in oil paint. Interestingly, it allowed the linseed oil to cure evenly throughout the thickness of the picture. Rather than from the surface to the base. And somehow even when the paint was fully cured, information technology kept the pigment pretty flexible. The same reason lead used to exist used in plastic. I imagine it also made the paint easier to work with equally well.

Post by **Juliajones54** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 11:33 pm

Our 2 story dwelling house was painted white and nosotros had information technology repainted white when the fourth dimension came. And so had steel siding in the wider widths put on well-nigh 8 years ago, white with dark greyness shutters and berry-reddish front end door. We have the sharpest looking house on the cake. Nosotros live in a windy state where the dirt blows and information technology does not look dirty. I grew upwards in the s where white houses and black shutters are common. I dear a white house!

Post past **mrc** » Fri Jun 24, 2016 5:xx am

mouses wrote:So it's time to have my house repainted. I am thinking white. Will I be pitiful, does information technology look awful quickly due to showing dirt, etc.? Thanks.

Very much a matter of gustation, preference, and circumstance. White with black shutters/door is a classic look, peculiarly with narrow lap siding on a two story colonial. I've lived in various white houses all my life, and they don't show dirt (like a white car does in March anyway) any more than whatsoever other color. I've seen ruby-red clay stain the bottom portion of many houses -- no matter the colour. That'south a dissimilar problem though (having bare ground around the foundation). No color will hide dirt, moss, mildew completely.

Salient questions: What color is the house/trim at present? What type of house is it? Colonial, greatcoat, ranch, ... What is the siding type? Are in that location shutters? Is the trim pronounced (older) or nearly invisible (modernistic)? What is around you in the neighborhood? And nearly importantly: What practice y'all like?

Once y'all determine the color, I concur with the other posters: Buy the highest quality name make paint you can find. Saving $20/gallon on a task with $1000s in labor makes no sense.

Post by **jharkin** » Fri Jun 24, 2016 6:02 am

Mingus wrote:

Rodc wrote:

those paints used white lead as the base of operations pigment and boiled linseed oil as the folder

While diverse lead compounds accept colour and as such practise double duty every bit pigments, my agreement the primary reason they are used is to speed the oxidation of the linseed oil (reason it is boiled likewise rather than raw) so that oil based paint dries in a reasonable amount of fourth dimension. Of class newer formulations use other drying agents.

Lead served a few purposes in oil paint. Interestingly, information technology allowed the linseed oil to cure evenly throughout the thickness of the motion-picture show. Rather than from the surface to the base. And somehow fifty-fifty when the paint was fully cured, it kept the pigment pretty flexible. The same reason atomic number 82 used to be used in plastic. I imagine it also made the pigment easier to work with as well.

BLO does dry pretty slow on its own, but they would add other things to it to speed up drying - ordinarily other solvents. Turpentine is a common mix and nosotros even so utilise this today in erstwhile house restoration work... a 50/50 mix of BLO and turpentine, sometimes with some penetrol added, is a window restorers trick... nosotros use it as a conditioner on 100+ year old woodwork that'south been stripped earlier repainting. Information technology does wonders to help paint attach to onetime weathered woods ( y'all must utilize an oil primer on information technology before latex).

The interesting thing nigh 'boiled' linseed oild is that it's not boiled at all. They add chemical drying agents instead. I read online that the erstwhile manner to make it was boiling the oil with some atomic number 82 oxide added ( not white atomic number 82 carbonate) wonder if folks are confusing this process with the white pb pigment in paints?

Post past **Rodc** » Fri Jun 24, 2016 eight:08 am

jharkin wrote:

Mingus wrote:

Rodc wrote:

those paints used white atomic number 82 as the base pigment and boiled linseed oil every bit the folder

While various atomic number 82 compounds accept color and as such practice double duty as pigments, my understanding the master reason they are used is to speed the oxidation of the linseed oil (reason it is boiled as well rather than raw) so that oil based pigment dries in a reasonable corporeality of time. Of form newer formulations apply other drying agents.

Lead served a few purposes in oil paint. Interestingly, information technology allowed the linseed oil to cure evenly throughout the thickness of the pic. Rather than from the surface to the base. And somehow fifty-fifty when the paint was fully cured, information technology kept the paint pretty flexible. The same reason lead used to exist used in plastic. I imagine it likewise fabricated the paint easier to work with as well.

BLO does dry pretty wearisome on its own, but they would add other things to information technology to speed up drying - usually other solvents. Turpentine is a mutual mix and we still use this today in old business firm restoration work... a 50/fifty mix of BLO and turpentine, sometimes with some penetrol added, is a window restorers play tricks... we employ it as a conditioner on 100+ year old woodwork that's been stripped before repainting. It does wonders to help pigment adhere to old weathered wood ( you must use an oil primer on it before latex).

The interesting thing near 'boiled' linseed oild is that information technology'south not boiled at all. They add chemic drying agents instead. I read online that the old way to brand it was boiling the oil with some atomic number 82 oxide added ( not white lead carbonate) wonder if folks are confusing this procedure with the white lead pigment in paints?

My agreement is that adding solvents help drying but not curing (oxidizing). Curing is what the lead and other "drying agents" are for, so drying is a misnomer. Dissimilar chemical reactions.

Could exist.

Friday Jun 24, 2016 9:20 am

Mingus wrote:

Rodc wrote:

those paints used white lead equally the base pigment and boiled linseed oil as the binder

While various pb compounds have color and equally such do double duty as pigments, my understanding the master reason they are used is to speed the oxidation of the linseed oil (reason information technology is boiled too rather than raw) so that oil based paint dries in a reasonable corporeality of time. Of course newer formulations utilise other drying agents.

Lead served a few purposes in oil paint. Interestingly, information technology allowed the linseed oil to cure evenly throughout the thickness of the film. Rather than from the surface to the base. And somehow even when the paint was fully cured, it kept the paint pretty flexible. The same reason lead used to be used in plastic. I imagine it also made the paint easier to work with as well.

jharkin wrote:BLO does dry out pretty slow on its own, just they would add other things to information technology to speed upwardly drying - usually other solvents. Turpentine is a mutual mix and we still use this today in old business firm restoration work... a 50/50 mix of BLO and turpentine, sometimes with some penetrol added, is a window restorers play a joke on... we employ it as a conditioner on 100+ twelvemonth erstwhile woodwork that's been stripped before repainting. It does wonders to help paint adhere to old weathered wood ( you must use an oil primer on it before latex).

Is this similar to adding Floetrol to sleeky latex paint to eliminate the brush marks?

We used Benjamin Moore glossy latex pigment to pigment our forepart door, inside and out. Nosotros were painting over beautifully smooth oil paint (with a primer). The latex brush marks were horrible, fifty-fifty with good brushes, no matter how much paint was applied. We returned to the paint store where they suggested Floetrol. We sanded the brush marks, and so added the Floetrol to the pigment before painting and it helped, only we never achieved that cute glossy perfectly smooth finish we had with the oil-based paint.

Post by **Rodc** » Fri Jun 24, 2016 nine:43 am

Miriam2 wrote:

Mingus wrote:

Rodc wrote:

those paints used white atomic number 82 every bit the base pigment and boiled linseed oil as the binder

While diverse pb compounds have color and as such do double duty as pigments, my agreement the primary reason they are used is to speed the oxidation of the linseed oil (reason it is boiled as well rather than raw) and so that oil based pigment dries in a reasonable amount of time. Of course newer formulations utilize other drying agents.

Pb served a few purposes in oil pigment. Interestingly, it allowed the linseed oil to cure evenly throughout the thickness of the motion picture. Rather than from the surface to the base. And somehow even when the paint was fully cured, it kept the paint pretty flexible. The same reason lead used to exist used in plastic. I imagine it also made the paint easier to work with equally well.

jharkin wrote:BLO does dry pretty deadening on its own, but they would add other things to information technology to speed up drying - commonly other solvents. Turpentine is a common mix and we withal use this today in one-time house restoration work... a l/50 mix of BLO and turpentine, sometimes with some penetrol added, is a window restorers pull a fast one on... we utilise it as a conditioner on 100+ twelvemonth one-time woodwork that's been stripped before repainting. It does wonders to help paint adhere to former weathered wood ( you must utilize an oil primer on it before latex).

Is this similar to adding Floetrol to glossy latex pigment to eliminate the brush marks?

We used Benjamin Moore glossy latex paint to pigment our forepart door, inside and out. Nosotros were painting over beautifully smooth oil pigment (with a primer). The latex castor marks were horrible, even with practiced brushes, no matter how much paint was applied. Nosotros returned to the pigment shop where they suggested Floetrol. Nosotros sanded the brush marks, and so added the Floetrol to the paint before painting and it helped, but we never achieved that beautiful sleeky perfectly smooth finish nosotros had with the oil-based paint.

In my, admittedly limited, experience yes this is the primary reason for using Penetrol or Floetrol in paint. - to aid flow out and workability. Merely I don't call up this what jharkin is talking most regarding calculation Penetrol to boiled linseed oil, though he (or she) and comment on that.

Post by **jharkin** » Fri Jun 24, 2016 10:xviii am

Yes, penetrol is like flotrol but for oil paint. The application I'm talking about is using linseed oil as a woods conditioner. We mix it either 50/50 with turpentine ot 40/40/xx with turpentine and penetrol, then castor on bare weathered woods. The penetrol supposedly helps it absorb better and boosts the preservative effects of the turpentine.

I don't know specifically what white lead does to oil drying since I've never used truthful pb paints... I just know from the old house restoration books that a dissimilar pb was used to make BLO from the type used as pigment.

Postal service by **famcalc** » Fri Jun 24, 2016 11:57 am

Yes, would help to know style/historic period of your dwelling house. White is archetype and specially cute on colonials just also could await swell on contemporary and other styles. Non a great look for tudor, craftsman, southwestern, adobe, etc. (unless y'all're going for the Santorini look).

A bright white can make your dwelling house wait larger and grander. We changed ours from a buttercup yellow to bright white, and information technology is very piece of cake to maintain and does non appear dirty or bear witness clay like a white machine does. Very easy to do bear upon-ups when needed. Yes, the base of the house does show splash back from mulch, etc. during rainstorms, merely it is easily hosed downward and hasn't stained -- and that would remain an issue with beige or any other lighter color.

Make sure they utilize the best primer you tin afford. If you're painting wood, attempt to go information technology scraped/sanded downward and prepared beforehand (if peeling or otherwise needing TLC). Sherwin Williams is fine and what all of the professional painters in our area prefer -- just make sure they purchase the top grade for you. Yous can still use Benjamin Moore paint chips, and they can color match to Sherwin Williams.

Volition your painters spray or brush? Spraying the pigment results in a thinner coat that looks swell, especially for fine details and interiors (we changed the colour of the interior of our windows this way and the new sprayed color looks mill). For exterior, brushed pigment volition get you a thicker coat that will likely be more durable.

Mail by **Mingus** » Friday Jun 24, 2016 12:35 pm

jharkin wrote: Turpentine is a common mix and we still use this today in former house restoration work... a 50/50 mix of BLO and turpentine, sometimes with some penetrol added, is a window restorers fox... we use it as a conditioner on 100+ yr onetime woodwork that's been stripped before repainting. It does wonders to help paint adhere to old weathered wood ( you must use an oil primer on information technology before latex).

Endeavour a l/50 mix of regular paint thinner and penetrol equally a wood conditioner rather than the BLO mix. Before the penetrol pre-treatment has fully cured, put your primer on. Then the primer and penetrol will "weld" together for a really tight bond to the forest.

Depending on weather and other atmospheric conditions, information technology make tight a couple of days before you are ready to prime. As well, y'all want all the solvents to have evaporated anyways.

Since Penetrol starts its life off as linseed oil, it will soak into forest pretty well. And because information technology is substantially a actually low grade varnish it volition create a better foundation for primer and paint than BLO will.

In that location are other means to pre-care for forest as well. More than costly and/or complex.

Mail by **jharkin** » Fri Jun 24, 2016 1:x pm

Mingus wrote:

jharkin wrote: Turpentine is a common mix and we yet use this today in old house restoration work... a l/50 mix of BLO and turpentine, sometimes with some penetrol added, is a window restorers trick... we use it as a conditioner on 100+ year old woodwork that's been stripped before repainting. It does wonders to assistance pigment adhere to onetime weathered woods ( yous must use an oil primer on it earlier latex).

Try a fifty/50 mix of regular paint thinner and penetrol every bit a woods conditioner rather than the BLO mix. Before the penetrol pre-treatment has fully cured, put your primer on. And so the primer and penetrol volition "weld" together for a really tight bond to the wood.

Depending on weather and other atmospheric weather condition, information technology make tight a couple of days earlier yous are ready to prime. Besides, you desire all the solvents to have evaporated anyways.

Since Penetrol starts its life off as linseed oil, it will soak into forest pretty well. And because information technology is essentially a really low grade varnish it will create a better foundation for primer and paint than BLO will.

There are other means to pre-care for forest every bit well. More plush and/or complex.

The BLO method I learned from professional window restorers that piece of work all over new England. I think the idea may come up originally from John Leeke himself. It works pretty good

Mail service by **reneeh63** » Friday Jun 24, 2016 2:24 pm

adamthesmythe wrote:I would non even paint the TRIM white. Too bland.

What kind of house? Where? What colors are neighboring houses painted? Why did you choose white?

Really white is quite daring and refreshing in my nearby subdivisions! Everyone (or I should say the developers/contractors of spec houses) loves, loves, LOVES any of ten various shades of Biscuit! House after firm...horrible infant **** brownish. I chose a sage green with stake yellow trim, simply that's just me.

Mail by **Sheepdog** » Saturday Jun 25, 2016 ten:00 am

Miriam2 wrote:Sheepdog!
How do nosotros - the common person - know which paint is good and which is bad? It all looks the same in the can. Is the cost an accurate clue?

Which brands are the good paint brands and which are the stay-abroad paint brands? Benjamin Moore, Pittsburgh, Sherwin Williams, Behr . . .

No paint manufacturer produces the all-time paint for all categories. I worked for Benjamin Moore, Pittsburgh and MAB. By my lab testings I know that our visitor did non make the best of all categories, but we were "competitive". When I purchase paints, I want to buy the best, long lasting, colorfast, washable, y'all proper noun it. I trust the research by Consumer Reports so I look at their reports. For case, in contempo reports Behr had the all-time marks for their outside latex. Even within a manufacturer'southward formulations, (manufacturers usually take several products of the aforementioned blazon, but of unlike qualities), ane may be very good, just another may be poor. For example, in Consumer Reports Sherwin-Williams Elapsing is a top performer, but their Resilience Flat was the worst. Consumer Reports did make this argument this twelvemonth for outside paints "Abode Depot is the identify to go for Behr paints, the top brand in our Ratings. Just Lowe'south Valspar brand, Ace Clark Kensington, and Benjamin Moore Aura also made our recommended list in one or more categories."

Post by **Sheepdog** » Sat Jun 25, 2016 10:15 am

Mingus wrote:

Rodc wrote:

those paints used white lead every bit the base paint and boiled linseed oil as the binder

While diverse atomic number 82 compounds have colour and every bit such do double duty as pigments, my agreement the chief reason they are used is to speed the oxidation of the linseed oil (reason information technology is boiled as well rather than raw) so that oil based pigment dries in a reasonable amount of fourth dimension. Of course newer formulations use other drying agents.

Lead served a few purposes in oil pigment. Interestingly, it allowed the linseed oil to cure evenly throughout the thickness of the motion picture. Rather than from the surface to the base. And somehow fifty-fifty when the paint was fully cured, it kept the paint pretty flexible. The same reason lead used to be used in plastic. I imagine it also made the paint easier to piece of work with as well.

Before titanium dioxide became economically feasible for use as the white pigment in paints (later on WWII), lead oxide (PbO) was the white in most paints, whether manufactured or made by the painter. (Earlier 1905 almost all paints were put together by the painter. Paint manufacturers began about 1900. Even as late as 1975 I had requests from former time painters to supply lead oxide paste, linseed oil, japan dryer and turpentine so that they could make their ain exterior paint.

Post by **jharkin** » Sun Jun 26, 2016 three:47 pm

Sheepdog wrote: No paint manufacturer produces the best paint for all categories. I worked for Benjamin Moore, Pittsburgh and MAB. Past my lab testings I know that our company did not make the best of all categories, merely nosotros were "competitive". When I buy paints, I desire to buy the best, long lasting, colorfast, washable, yous name it. I trust the research by Consumer Reports so I look at their reports. For example, in recent reports Behr had the best marks for their exterior latex. Even within a manufacturer's formulations, (manufacturers ordinarily take several products of the aforementioned type, but of different qualities), one may be very practiced, simply another may be poor. For example, in Consumer Reports Sherwin-Williams Duration is a top performer, but their Resilience Flat was the worst. Consumer Reports did brand this statement this yr for exterior paints "Home Depot is the place to go for Behr paints, the meridian brand in our Ratings. Just Lowe's Valspar make, Ace Clark Kensington, and Benjamin Moore Aura likewise made our recommended listing in one or more categories."

What I cannot understand - is if Behr really is the all-time paint ever like CR claims, why is it that no professional painter I have ever met volition touch on information technology with a 10 foot pole. Same goes for Valspar. If you are skeptical get to painttalk.com and seach on "Behr"

All the pros seem to use B-M or SW exclusively.

I'm asking this seriously, if you can requite us some insight from inside the industry please tell - are all paint pros total of #(*&#$ or is Consumer Reports full of #(*&#@ ? I'm skeptical considering in all honestly every appliance I've bought based on CR rankings in the last 5 years has been a dud and I'm having a hard fourth dimension trusting them anymore.

Mail by **mrc** » Sun Jun 26, 2016 iii:56 pm

Many on this forum take stopped relying on CR. I would believe the professional painters.

Post by **Sheepdog** » Sun Jun 26, 2016 4:09 pm

jharkin wrote:

Sheepdog wrote: No paint manufacturer produces the best paint for all categories. I worked for Benjamin Moore, Pittsburgh and MAB. Past my lab testings I know that our company did not make the best of all categories, merely nosotros were "competitive". When I buy paints, I want to buy the best, long lasting, colorfast, washable, you name it. I trust the enquiry by Consumer Reports then I look at their reports. For example, in recent reports Behr had the best marks for their exterior latex. Even within a manufacturer'southward formulations, (manufacturers usually have several products of the aforementioned blazon, simply of different qualities), i may be very good, but some other may be poor. For case, in Consumer Reports Sherwin-Williams Duration is a meridian performer, but their Resilience Flat was the worst. Consumer Reports did brand this argument this year for exterior paints "Abode Depot is the place to go for Behr paints, the pinnacle brand in our Ratings. Simply Lowe's Valspar brand, Ace Clark Kensington, and Benjamin Moore Aura also made our recommended list in one or more categories."

What I cannot understand - is if Behr really is the best paint ever similar CR claims, why is information technology that no professional painter I take ever met will touch it with a x pes pole. Same goes for Valspar. If you lot are skeptical go to painttalk.com and seach on "Behr"

All the pros seem to use B-Thou or SW exclusively.

I'm asking this seriously, if you tin can give u.s.a. some insight from inside the industry please tell - are all paint pros full of #(*&#$ or is Consumer Reports total of #(*&#@ ? I'm skeptical because in all honestly every appliance I've bought based on CR rankings in the final 5 years has been a dud and I'1000 having a hard time trusting them anymore.

Professionals buy on toll, pigment coverage and ease of application....unremarkably not necessarily for long lasting. They go to dealers who volition deal. Sherwin-Williams have their own stores. My company, MAB, had their ain stores and they will bargain. In fact their master business concern are professional painters. Behrs does not have their own stores to my knowledge, Valspar does not have their own stores. They are sold by and large thru builder suppliers similar Menards, Lowes, etc. Behrs may be expensive. My opinion is buy the all-time not what the painter wants to use. I tell the painter what paint to use. In fact, I always buy it myself and give it to the painter. Every bit I told you, I trust Consumer Reports pigment testing. I have visited their test panel farms (several acres) where they test outside paint outs for upwardly to x years. You don't believe? That is okay. You don't injure my feelings. I am just giving you lot my opinion from several decades in the business organisation in manufacturing and technical, sales and client service.

Post by **jharkin** » Sun Jun 26, 2016 4:thirty pm

Sheepdog wrote: Professionals buy on price, pigment coverage and ease of application....commonly not necessarily for long lasting. They go to dealers who will bargain. Sherwin-Williams have their ain stores. My company, MAB, had their ain stores and they will deal. In fact their primary business are professional painters. Behrs does not have their own stores to my cognition, Valspar does non have their own stores. They are sold mostly thru architect suppliers like Menards, Lowes, etc. Behrs may exist expensive. My opinion is buy the best not what the painter wants to use. I tell the painter what pigment to use. In fact, I always buy it myself and give it to the painter. As I told yous, I trust Consumer Reports paint testing. I have visited their test panel farms (several acres) where they test exterior paint outs for upwards to ten years. Y'all don't believe? That is okay. You don't hurt my feelings. I am just giving you my stance from several decades in the business organisation in manufacturing and technical, sales and client service.

I do most of my own painting. Ive asked a number of pros what they would utilize on their own house and usually the ansew is SW or BM. In this area Behr and Valspar are bay far the cheapest and are sold thrugh Hard disk drive and Lowes respectively. SW is in the eye price wise and sold at manufactory stores only. BM tends to be on the loftier stop and is sold in mill stores and through TrueValue franchises.

(Of course there are the smaller brands like California and the really niche Farrow and Ball which Ive heard very good things nearly simply never used since in that location isn't anywhere local to go them.... Thought I get FB colors custom mixed in Ben Moore a lot - they have many very prissy colors for antique houses )

Around here most pigment contractors accuse labor + actual cost of paint so unless they are buying Behr and giving the customer a faux receipt for Moore its not affecting their bottom line. (?). The contractor talk on sites like painttalk.com and the JLC forums is similar... any give-and-take of Behr seems to turn into a religious war with all kinds of horror stories about poor workability, bad coverage, peeling, etc.

I know that at that place is no such thing as a production without bad reviews and a LOT of amateurs dont know how to prep and them blame the pigment... it but seems that this is a category where the consensus stance seems to become opposite of what CR reports.

Mail by **Rodc** » Sun Jun 26, 2016 five:47 pm

I have a practiced friend who is a high terminate painter for people for whom money is no object. CEOs of large companies and other C-Conform types. He used to paint for Ted Kennedy in McLean earlier he passed. A few dollars hither or there was non an issue.

He refused to use Behr pigment except for one Home Depot executive. He hated the work-ability and charged the guy extra for the hassle.

He used BM.

FWIW: Google tells me that BM is far more than expensive - peak of the line is approximately $70 vs $xl per gallon for interior latex wall hurting.

Now maybe he got a better deal, I don't know. He certainly told me that I should stay away from Behr for my own firm and use BM. He used BM in his own abode.

I should add, at that place are some actually expensive high end designer paints. Sometimes his customers want these. He was happy to use it but laughed equally he said it was no meliorate than BM.

Dominicus Jun 26, 2016 6:eighteen pm

I want to address several bug or questions after quickly glancing at this thread. The question about what is good pigment I can respond. Sherwin Williams is very expert paint and they have enough to choose from. After close to 20 years as a professional painter, I like SW Super Paint for exterior work and I like their Sher Scrub along with Super Paint for interior work. I like SW Pro Archetype gloss for trim...with a shot of floetrol for leveling purposes. For interior ceilings, SW CHB is past far our go to paint.

Someone said in a higher place that a brush achieves a thicker glaze of paint, that'due south not really true. With a sprayer, a professional knows how to build a coat up, ultimately achieving far better overall thickness and covering/hiding power.

Every bit for lead paints, they were outlawed in 1978 or so. I'g not sure why at that place's so much discussion on atomic number 82 paint here. As for a drying agent for oil based products, it'southward called Japan Drier and it works likewise.

Some other tip, a practiced painter can accomplish a sprayed expect by using either floetrol in latex based paint, or penetrol in oil based paint. Add the proper amount to your cutting pot and your brush work will be top notch. Always kickoff in the dry area and work your way back into the previously painted area when doing brush or roller work.

Dorman Painting

Dominicus Jun 26, 2016 half-dozen:34 pm

Equally for lead paints, they were outlawed in 1978 or so. I'm not sure why there'due south so much give-and-take on atomic number 82 paint here. As for a drying agent for oil based products, information technology's called Nihon Drier and information technology works besides.

This is Bogleheads and no topic is too esoteric.

Postal service by **Miriam2** » Sun Jun 26, 2016 6:55 pm

Sheepdog wrote:No pigment manufacturer produces the best paint for all categories. I worked for Benjamin Moore, Pittsburgh and MAB. By my lab testings I know that our company did not make the best of all categories, but we were "competitive". When I purchase paints, I want to buy the best, long lasting, colorfast, washable, you name it. I trust the research by Consumer Reports so I expect at their reports. For case, in recent reports Behr had the all-time marks for their exterior latex. Even within a manufacturer's formulations, (manufacturers normally take several products of the same type, only of dissimilar qualities), one may exist very expert, merely another may be poor. For example, in Consumer Reports Sherwin-Williams Duration is a tiptop performer, just their Resilience Flat was the worst. Consumer Reports did brand this statement this year for exterior paints "Domicile Depot is the place to get for Behr paints, the top brand in our Ratings. But Lowe'due south Valspar brand, Ace Clark Kensington, and Benjamin Moore Aura also made our recommended listing in 1 or more categories."

Thanks Sheepdog for your data!

Perhaps what some of the skepticism is - whether the paint companies take Consumer Reports out to fancy dinners and shows and so, incredibly, Consumer Reports writes prissy things about their paint. I am not familiar with the inside scoop on Consumer Reports, what they are, who owns them, or how they operate, but your description of their "paint labs" indicates they actually do their testing.

On another note, would information technology be more or less accurate to say that we could judge the bones quality of the pigment by the price the paint company charges regular consumers for their paint (not professional painters who may receive a courtesy discount)?

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